And the tomato. Nothing frustrates me more than the over-complication of a summer tomato. In my opinion, it is the most perfect food. Cut thick slices and top a piece of toasted sourdough smeared with a bit of mayonnaise, hit it with some salt and pepper and you’ve just made my favorite summer snack. Mix juicy chunks with some torn basil and serve with a good sized ball of burrata and a dousing of fruity olive oil.
We’ll have plenty of time to talk about the pleasures of summer produce and the hands off cooking style it creates. Until then, I continue to rely on the seasonally immune produce such as cabbage and carrots and my short list of freezer and pantry staples.
In the freezer, snuggled up against the chopped spinach, you will always find at least one bag of frozen peas. Rarely do I serve them as a side dish like my mom used to when I would seek out the last serving in the bowl where all the melted butter and salt had collected. More frequently, I’m adding them to Basmati rice when I make our family favorite Chana Masala (recipe coming next week). I throw them into fried rice, Shepherd’s Pie, risotto, or even smooth them out in the food processor with some fresh herbs and ricotta if I’m needing an easy pasta sauce.
A bag of frozen peas can be as versatile as other canned ingredients but when thawed (I just sit mine in a bowl of warm water for five minutes), can seem almost as if they’re fresh. They can brighten up even the beigest of meals. They offer a sniff of spring.
This pasta dish was created when there wasn’t much produce to choose from. I assume it must have been winter and I assume it must have been a very long time since my last grocery haul. I found a few strips of bacon in the fridge drawer and my trusty bag of peas nestled into a corner of the freezer.
The bacon gets browned and the peas see the pan just to warm through and then it’s all tossed with some hot pasta. This meal turns up on our table at least once every two weeks.
Once fresh peas grace the grocery shelves and the farmers’ markets stands — you can upgrade this meal. But, for now, the beauty of it is that it is perfectly passable all-year round.
“But First, Food” columnist Whitney Kling is a recipe developer who lives in Southwest Ohio with her four kids, two cats and a food memoir that’s ever-nearing completion. If she’s not playing tennis or at a yoga class, she’s in the kitchen creating something totally addictive — and usually writing about it.
PASTA WITH BACON AND PEAS
1 lb pasta, any shape works, reserve pasta water
8 oz bacon, chopped
8 oz frozen peas, thawed
1 T butter
2 t salt
1 t pepper
¼ cup grated pecorino
First, cook your pasta according to package instructions. Generously salt the water and before draining, reserve 1 cup pasta water.
While the pasta cooks, crisp up the bacon in a large frying pan over medium heat, about 6 minutes. Lower the heat and add the peas, butter, salt, and pepper. You do not want to cook these items, you’re just warming them through.
Toss in the cooked and drained pasta with ¼ c pasta water. Stir thoroughly until everything is glossy, adding more pasta water if needed. Remove from heat, taste for seasoning and top with pecorino.
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